What is the best wood for raised garden bed?

Filed under: Gardening |

raised bed gardening
Image by redteam
One of the things that I was really excited about getting into once I moved back to Los Angeles from Santa Cruz was vegetable gardening.

What you see here is a 2′ x 8′ raised-bed garden that Boja and I built. Most of the books I’ve read talk about 4′ x 4′ beds, but I like this setup and it fits better in my wreck of a backyard anyway.

Raised-bed gardens are great. They produce a higher concentration of food than crops planted in rows (which are better for very large operations) and you don’t have to deal with lots of the nonsense that planting in the ground entails: no soil amendment (which can take years) because you start with good soil right away, fewer drainage problems, easy tending (don’t have to bend over as much), and many other benefits.

This picture was taken on 1/27, almost exactly three months after I constructed and seeded the garden. The stars, from left to right are: Radishes (already harvested all but one – they grow really fast!), Nantes carrots, Royal Chantenay carrots, Red Chard, Imperator carrots (putting them in between the chards was a big mistake – they get almost no sun), White Chard, and some fallow space (couldn’t decide what I wanted in there so I "left my options open" – oh well – I guess I’ll just grow forks).

Cats love to take dumps in the soft soil of gardens. They must think that they’re huge deluxe cat boxes. Before the plants really got going, I had to deal with a couple of cat incidents. "Never again", I said. So I got a bunch of sticks (the trunks of my vanquished enemies, Ailanthus Altissima) and leaned them on the side of the box to make climbing in unpleasant. To make things even more unpleasant, I set rows of carpeting tacks on the edge of the box (yes, spike strips). In the case that a cat ever got through all that, I have strategically embedded plastic forks in the soil with the tines pointing upwards. That way, when the prospective dumper tries to lower his furry little butt over the soil, he feels the sting of "Dixie’s Pitchfork". I also spread black pepper over the soil to discourage any jumping squirrels or tiny vermin. Apparently, it stings their paws.

So far, everything has worked. My guess is that the spikes are the most "instructive" method. My only enemies now are the occasional caterpillar and the ruthless aphid hordes.

As for the crops, they are delicious. We have already made several impressive dinners out of the chards. As of mid-March, the carrots are still not quite ready. I think they need lots and lots and lots of very regular watering.

As soon as I sort out a problem with the faucet in the backyard, I will invest in a drip-watering system. I already have the timer/controller. As it is now, I have big tubs of water that I fill up and leave out for a couple of days so that the chlorine and chloramine can get the hell out. Then I put that water in a watering can and have picture-perfect watering moments.

I think the chards will stick around until it gets really, really hot. By then, I will have tomatoes, squashes (like zucchinis, yum!), and some other interesting things.

Question by tg: What is the best wood for raised garden bed?
I wanted to build a raised garden bed. What wood would be best? Is there any wood that would repel pest?

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7 Responses to What is the best wood for raised garden bed?

  1. oak beams

    pisces24
    November 20, 2011 at 6:54 pm
    Reply

  2. If you’re intending to raise fruits and/or veggies in this garden Hon, you’ll wish to go with cedar. It’s naturally insect-repellant and rot-resistant. Treated lumber is not desirable for this purpose because of the chemicals it contains.
    If your bed is for ornamentals (flowers) only though, you can use treated lumber.

    chinacat sunflower PRC
    November 20, 2011 at 7:53 pm
    Reply

  3. Cedar for both purposes if you can afford it. If money is a factor, just use much cheaper pine. Get it in 2X (actually 1.5″) thickness with the width you desire. Use 3″deck screws to do the framing. Pine will give out in about 5 or 6 years and then you can rebuild the frames with new lumber. Not a big deal. Use cedar chips or bark as a surface topping to repel some, but not all insects. Also keeps weeds down.

    You need the 2X limber to make a good strong frame. 2X in cedar is a really big jump in cost from 1X cedar.

    HillClimber
    November 20, 2011 at 7:55 pm
    Reply

  4. best wood vs. best buy? i would use plain pine boards from a lumber company. the xtra cost for special wood, would out weigh the benefits of the veggies.

    Tillis
    November 20, 2011 at 8:23 pm
    Reply

  5. go buy some cheap hemlock planks and nail and stake them…you will get many years out of them …

    Dan the brick man
    November 20, 2011 at 9:22 pm
    Reply

  6. Cedar or cypress lumber, both of which can be rather expensive. Next best is fir. I would not used treated lumber. In a lot of cases the wood has arsenic or creosote which you wouldn’t want your plants to absorb. The best pest repellent wood is cedar.

    cajundude1
    November 20, 2011 at 10:01 pm
    Reply

  7. Cedar is the way to go, never use landscape timbers that have been pre treated as this chemical can leach into your plants.

    Julie
    November 20, 2011 at 10:28 pm
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