Beekeeping – How to make lots more Bees – Using the Rose Hive Method Part 3

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In this Beekeeping for beginners on Artificial Swarm creation. You will get quite a lot of info in an easy to understand manner by Tim, the inventor of the R…

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25 Responses to Beekeeping – How to make lots more Bees – Using the Rose Hive Method Part 3

  1. Last year, when I was still living in Ireland. I went to a fellow
    beekeeping friend and neighbour to film his Rose Hive setup. We made three
    videos. This one being part of the three.
    Here is the much awaited video by Tim
    on his YouTube channel WayOutWest Blowinblog.

    How to make a Rose Hive.
    How To Make Rose Bee Hive Boxes

    How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 7, 2014 at 3:45 pm
    Reply

  2. How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 7, 2014 at 3:54 pm
    Reply

  3. Only read after you watch the clip.

    pickerick1
    I just was curious how many splits can be done with a really large hive. 3,
    4 or 5? more? Does letting the bee’s raise the own Queen work better
    (genetically speaking) or should I purchase new Queen’s for each new hive
    of good genetic stock? Do you feed the new hives? aka sugar syrup? If so
    how long? I really liked your video’s. They showed the basic’s very well..
    Thank you David !!

    Answer:
    No prob,
    So to answer your first question. If you do not feed sugar and they prepare
    to swarm early in the year, up to 6 nucs from a very strong colony is
    possible. So this would be then in around May.
    (If you feed sugar and I would not go down that road, or only in an
    emergency. You can even make more)
    But anyways you will have added a second brood box ontop in April, using
    only foundation. The bees will draw out all the foundation. This means lots
    of new space for egg laying by the queen and then lots of brood and bees in
    May. Then the bees will naturally get congested and make queen cells. You
    could also add one more brood chambers and wait longer. This is all a
    natural process that is what you would expect to find in any colony.
    When there are queen cells divide the hole colony up into 6 nucs. Or divide
    into as many as you have, queen cells, frames of brood, frames of stores
    and bees to cover. Do this very gently, making sure the frames are not
    knocked or bees agitated. As you know each nuc needs 2-4 frames of brood,
    with at least one good queen cell, two frame of food, meaning pollen and
    honey and two times as many bees to cover the frame of brood. Also fill
    each nuc with 5-6 frames. This might seam excessive to some beekeepers. But
    we need a strong enough force to build up for winter and we do not feed
    sugar.

    Next bring all the nucs to a site where there are no other bees and more
    than 3 KM away from the parent colony. Then wait 4 days, go back and take
    down all queen cells but one. Also you will find a queen will be in one of
    the nucs and most likely there will be no queen cells. You will know by the
    presence of eggs in the worker cells and perhaps torn down queen cell in
    witch nuclei she is.
    Then leave them all alone for 3 – 4 weeks. Bring a new brood box and frames
    to give each colony that made it, more room.

    When you find queen cells, you must judge into how many nucs you can split
    a colony before the next winter comes. This will depend on strength of
    colony, how early you can make the split. How many combs are drawn out and
    is there a flow on, is there lots of food in the hive.
    In Ireland you would split into less the later it gets into the year. With
    only two by late summer and only if you have two broods with full comb.
    Trying to make full frames of comb is what it all really boils down to.
    Naturally when the bees draw out comb, the bees will need to bring in a lot
    of honey. For that you will need lots of bees. In order to get lots of bees
    you will need lots of space for the queen to lay eggs into. Therefor it is
    best to start with a big colony for comb building and then you can divide
    as much as the colony has to give.
    Hope that makes sense :)
    Note that it is a must to divide and manage swarming as much as is safe, or
    bees will become less in your apiaries intill one year you will have none.
    Wild bees do not last long in the wild anymore, due to varroa. Apiguard
    combined with a varroa floor is the only natural means to kill varroa. It
    is 98% effective, even more so than the chemical stuff being applied to
    most hives these days.

    To answer your second question. It is best to let the bees raise their own
    queens. Less stress when you don’t stick in a new queen that could get
    killed and you paid for her too.
    In Ireland we have the black honey bee of Europe. This bee is great for
    working the flowers even when it rains. Much better at staying alive in
    this climate. So I would try to only get that queen here. But there is no
    harm in letting your bees make there own and letting the queen mate with
    local drones. Any bee you will have from your hives will be just as good as
    any ones you could buy. Plus usually they are better adapted for your
    region.

    I hope you don’t mind this turning into an essay. But to answer your last
    question. I only ever fed 3 colonies sugar in my hole life as a beekeeper
    and that was because the colony was a swarm late in the season or some
    other problem. Bees eat honey and sugar is for tea :)

    Hope that helped.
    Any other questions feel free to ask away.

    Best wishes David.

    How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 7, 2014 at 4:12 pm
    Reply

  4. What kind of bees are your bees?
    The primary races here in Finland are Italian, Krainian and Buckfast.

    Götterdämmerüng
    June 7, 2014 at 4:21 pm
    Reply

  5. man you sure did piss them off!

    Joe Dirt
    June 7, 2014 at 4:52 pm
    Reply

  6. delightful video…first time I heard queens called princesses…lol…

    steve syvan
    June 7, 2014 at 5:23 pm
    Reply

  7. Loved the video. I’m not sure most folks can watch their hives close
    enough to catch the swarm cycle as closely as you did. Having said this
    bravo to you for some really good information and great entertainment. 

    Bill Astell
    June 7, 2014 at 5:40 pm
    Reply

  8. Thanks for your hard work. =]

    AxelNotHuman
    June 7, 2014 at 6:08 pm
    Reply

  9. I got a queen in my car

    Tej Mehta
    June 7, 2014 at 6:56 pm
    Reply

  10. ًح

    el mutaz el baghir
    June 7, 2014 at 7:02 pm
    Reply

  11. First and foremost, than you very very much, what a great video! I work
    with National hives but this was still a good lesson, largely transferable.

    My question is; I’ve been told/taught that if you move hive, or split hive,
    and the new position is less than 2 miles or so from the original position,
    and more than a few feet, the bees will be confused and will fly to their
    original home.

    How come all (or most, anyway) your bees stayed with the split and did not
    return to the hive left in the original position? Is it because they think
    they have swarmed, and therefore adapt to the new location without
    returning to the old home?

    Petr Gilar
    June 7, 2014 at 8:00 pm
    Reply

  12. Uhhh gives me chills 

    leon miller
    June 7, 2014 at 8:01 pm
    Reply

  13. thank u for posting this video.

    stan stasiu Stanislaw
    June 7, 2014 at 8:32 pm
    Reply

  14. Thanks, this was very informative and so interesting. It is wonderful to
    get a visual example of how to carry out these activities.

    Just one piece of advice; please keep the camera trained on the action
    rather than the person’s head or the trees behind him! I keep trying to
    scroll down to see what is happening.

    GPSJane
    June 7, 2014 at 8:58 pm
    Reply

  15. In your case I would just buy the gear. You really need to be extract for
    making hives. This is to do with getting the bee space right, or the bees
    will glue all your frames to the inside of the hive. Or fill in the gaps
    with comb for larger gaps. David.

    How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 7, 2014 at 9:15 pm
    Reply

  16. Will do. I don’t plan on being a huge beek with anything more than two
    hives. thanks for the help and the videos! God bless!

    forevals2
    June 7, 2014 at 9:37 pm
    Reply

  17. I see the queen when do I get my ice cream?

    TheKarver79
    June 7, 2014 at 10:02 pm
    Reply

  18. No prob, Glad you found it useful. If you split a colony later you would
    have to leave even more brood per split. You can have 3-5 frame splits in
    April and let them build up. A rose box is enough for July, but 2 are
    needed for any later than that. Over all have one full box with brood per
    split. The rose hive box can be enough to get over the winter. I even had a
    few nuclei survive before. Your 10 frames with deep box is fine for over
    wintering, but you might need to feed…………

    How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 7, 2014 at 10:47 pm
    Reply

  19. You’re right about e.Queen cells, but I wanted propagate from my stock, a
    strain that hardly ever swarms, but tends to supersede their old queens.
    They are very productive and docile and varroa resistant: I don’t treat
    them for varroa and they thrive. I guess the best way is to leave the
    nucleus alone for a week to realise it is queenless, remove any e.Queen
    cells, then put in a small strip of eggs and young larvae to rear as good
    queen cells.

    Fuzz Bonce
    June 7, 2014 at 11:28 pm
    Reply

  20. This is absolutely fascinating! I was mesmerized. Beekeeping is such an
    ancient and honorable vocation, going back to the dawn of recorded history,
    maybe even further. How wonderful that I can now sit in my house in the
    city, and virtually gaze into beehives throbbing with life, listening to a
    master beekeeper explainin what’s what!

    nameofthepen
    June 7, 2014 at 11:29 pm
    Reply

  21. More important question: Why do others practicing Apiculture discourage
    drone broods?

    Mog of War
    June 8, 2014 at 12:24 am
    Reply

  22. This can be done in Feb. if you are in Ireland, because of the nice mild
    spring. Bees hardly use honey in the winter, but use a lot when the brood
    is starting to be raised again in spring. Usually though you will have mild
    enough weather to feed some thick syrup, when the queen starts laying
    again. Or if you don’t like giving sugar, check out the video I have on
    feeding honey. Don’t be tempted to take out any frames to have a look. It
    will still be to cold. Hope that helped. Best wishes David.

    How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 8, 2014 at 1:14 am
    Reply

  23. Just watch the other two videos and it will become clear :)

    How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 8, 2014 at 2:07 am
    Reply

  24. Bees often go into a hive that has been empty. Just make sure the previous
    bees did not perish because of disease. There is almost always food and
    water in the area for bees.

    How to Videos Organic Gardening & Beekeeping by Work With Nature
    June 8, 2014 at 2:51 am
    Reply

  25. another question, how do u get so strong hives :O ^^

    Göhlsdorfer Imker
    June 8, 2014 at 3:08 am
    Reply

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